This post is a complete guide to the Dogu Express, sharing my personal experience, details on Dogu Express tickets, the Dogu Express route, and what you can realistically expect when traveling by train in Turkey.
The Dogu Express, also known as Dogu Ekspresi, runs from Ankara to Kars and is the longest train journey in Turkey. The trip takes roughly 24 hours and is widely considered one of the most scenic train journeys in the world thanks to its dramatic landscapes. It is also one of the most affordable and rewarding ways to reach the remote and breathtaking regions of Northeastern Anatolia.
The word Dogu means east in Turkish, and the train terminates in Kars, located in the far eastern part of the country. For some travelers, this is where the journey ends, while for others it becomes the starting point for further exploration. Kars itself is a charming city with attractions like Kars Castle and the nearby ancient ruins of Ani. From here, you can also continue onward to Doğubayezit, a fascinating town known for the stunning Ishak Pasa Palace and its proximity to Mount Ararat.
Due to its growing popularity, a special touristic version of the Dogu Express was introduced in May 2019. This train operates a few times per week, takes over 30 hours, and includes scheduled sightseeing stops along the way.
Incredible views on the Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars
Why the Dogu Express
I ended up taking the Dogu Express somewhat unexpectedly while planning my journey to Iran. Flying would have been easier, but I prefer train travel, both for sustainability and the experience itself. Unfortunately, the Trans Asia Express from Istanbul to Tehran had been suspended at the time.
The alternative was the Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars. While this route required multiple connections involving buses and taxis, it turned out to be an unforgettable experience. The scenery through Northeastern Anatolia was an unexpected highlight and gave me the chance to explore a lesser visited part of Turkey before continuing to Iran.
To this day, the Dogu Express remains one of the most memorable train journeys I have ever taken, alongside routes like Oslo to Bergen in Norway, Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka, Belgrade to Bar, and St Petersburg to Murmansk.
My experience on the Dogu Express
The Dogu Express used to depart from Istanbul, but today all long distance trains start from Ankara. High speed trains now connect Istanbul and Ankara in around four hours.
Reaching the departure station was my first challenge. Traveling from Istanbul’s European side to Pendik station took far longer than expected due to traffic, and I arrived just minutes before departure. The journey to Ankara itself was uneventful, but the real adventure was yet to begin.
I spent a few hours waiting at Ankara station before boarding the Dogu Express. The atmosphere was subdued, with visible security presence, and I decided to stay put rather than explore the city.
Update Since March 2019, trains now depart from Söğütlüçeşme station, which is much easier to reach using the Marmaray.
At 6 PM, I boarded the Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars. I was pleasantly surprised by how modern and comfortable the train was. My sleeper compartment had four beds, clean bedding, blankets, and even complimentary slippers.
Once the train departed, the landscape quickly became rugged and expansive, and the sunset views were stunning. I slept well and woke up the next morning to snow covered fields and frozen streams, despite it already being April.
Ankara to Kars
The scenery throughout the journey was extraordinary. Vast mountain ranges, open plains, and winding rivers passed by endlessly. Villages were few and far between, and many appeared harsh and isolated. While modern apartment blocks are slowly replacing old farmhouses, life here still feels demanding and remote.
Kars
After 24 hours, the train finally arrived in Kars. At first glance, it felt like a bleak town at the edge of the country, but that impression quickly changed. Locals were incredibly welcoming, and I was even escorted to my hotel by a family I met at the station.
The city center was lively, with bustling markets and families strolling along the main streets. Kars turned out to be far warmer in spirit than its cold climate suggested.
Kars to Doğubayezit
Kars is one of the coldest cities in Turkey, and snowfall is common well into spring. The next morning, I boarded a bus to Doğubayezit, passing through villages and mountain passes shrouded in mist and snow. Hidden somewhere behind the clouds was Mount Ararat.
Doğubayezit
Despite heavy snowfall, Doğubayezit was welcoming and calm. Locals were eager to invite me for tea, and even though transportation to Ishak Pasa Palace was limited due to weather, a local trekking guide offered to take me there himself.
The palace was breathtaking, and as the snow cleared, we were rewarded with sweeping views over the town. The next morning, Mount Ararat revealed itself under a clear blue sky, making the journey completely worthwhile.
Dogu Express travel tips
Regular or Touristic Dogu Express
The touristic Dogu Express includes sightseeing stops but runs only in winter, takes longer, and is significantly more expensive. The regular Dogu Express offers equally spectacular scenery at a much lower cost. If you cannot secure tickets for the touristic version, the regular train is still an unforgettable experience.
Dogu Express train times
The touristic Dogu Express runs from December to March and departs Ankara three times a week. The regular Dogu Express operates daily, departing Ankara at 17:55 and arriving in Kars the following evening.
Due to high demand, tickets often sell out quickly. Booking well in advance is strongly recommended.
How to get Dogu Express tickets
Tickets can be booked through the Turkish Railways website. Regular tickets are available 30 days in advance, while touristic tickets can be booked 60 days ahead. Prices for the regular train are very affordable, while the touristic version starts at a much higher price.
If departing from Istanbul, remember to book a separate high speed train ticket to Ankara.
The Dogu Express route
The regular route includes stops in Kirikkale, Kayseri, Sivas, Erzincan, and Erzurum before reaching Kars. The touristic version includes longer sightseeing stops at select cities.
How to choose your seat on the Dogu Express
The regular Dogu Express offers reclining seats and four bed sleeper compartments. For a journey of this length, sleepers provide the best comfort and value. The touristic train offers more luxurious private compartments.
What to expect on the Dogu Express
The train is clean, comfortable, and well managed. Bedding is provided, toilets are reasonably clean, and there is a dining car serving simple meals. Traveling through Eastern Anatolia by train is a unique and rewarding experience.
Solo female travel on the Dogu Express
As a woman traveling alone, I felt completely safe on the Dogu Express. Turkish passengers were polite and respectful, and the atmosphere onboard was friendly. The regular train attracts mostly locals, while the touristic train caters mainly to tourists.
What to bring along on the Dogu Express
Bring snacks, water, toilet paper, and wet wipes for the long journey. While food is available, it is limited.
Accommodation after the Dogu Express
Istanbul Stanpoli Hostel
Kars Hotel Kent Ani
Doğubayezit Hotel Ararat
Going by train through Turkey to Iran
While the Dogu Express is no longer the fastest route into Iran, it remains one of the most scenic. Traveling via Kars and Doğubayezit allows you to experience Eastern Anatolia before crossing the border at Gürbulak Bazargan.